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December
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| To Prune or Not
to Prune Perennials? |
| One of the most asked
questions this time of year is whether perennials should be pruned
before or after the first freeze. If you look at the way Nature does
it, you'll get a hint. The plants naturally die back, losing life
in the aboveground part of their growth, but maintaining life in their
roots. These plants know when to go dormant or to expect freeze-back
by length of day, and colder air/soil temperatures. If you were to
cut back a plant too early it might want to start the process of wanting
to flush out it's top growth. So just wait until your perennials naturally
go dormant or freeze back before you start pruning. And then leave
some of the old 'stump' where you can see it so you don't dig it up
with future soil amending. But if you wish to move some plants around… |
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| Moving and Transplanting: |
| December is still a prime
time to dig and transplant those plants that you wish to relocate.
The ideal time is just before or after they freeze back or go dormant.
You can move perennials, shrubs, and small trees at this time. As
the plants go dormant, they will turn their attention to expanding
their root systems. When you move them now, they will already be in
the stage to want to re-grow their roots. Generally, dig up as much
of the root system as you can. Have your other hole ready so that
you can plop it into its new home quickly. Be sure that you don't
leave any large voids in the soil around the new plant. Once planted,
be sure to soak the root ball with diluted liquid seaweed to help
it get off to a new start. If the plant still has a lot of foliage
growth, you can cut it back some to reduce the strain on the now limited
amount of roots. Even with a little more warm weather, the plant will
not be induced to put more foliage on as it will be concentrating
on getting settled into its new home. For questions about specific
plant varieties, please give us a call at the nursery. |
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| Bare-Root Fruit
Tree Season: |
| The bare-root
fruit trees will be rolling into the nurseries this month. We are
getting ours from two growers this year. One delivery will be here
in mid-December with the second delivery in the first week of January.
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| What to do with
all those leaves? |
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Don't burn those leaves!
Compost 'em! A compost pile is easy to build and maintain. There
are several different ways to turn all the plant debris that fall
gives us into the most useful soil amendment around. You can either
build a compost pile that will heat and compost your yard wastes
or you can just build a static pile and occasionally use the decayed
stuff at the bottom of the pile.
- The Static Pile:
Simply find you some wire fencing and make yourself a big hoop
basket. A good choice in wire fencing would be the 2x4 inch welded
wire that is four feet tall. You can make it any size, but one
that is 5-6 feet across works well. Once you have cut and wired
the two ends together, stand it up so it is sitting on the ground
with the top open. Toss your leaves and other yard wastes into
the container. This type of compost pile stays 'cold', never heating
up. But from time to time you can lift up one side and harvest
that good stuff on the bottom of the pile.
- Thermal Composting:
This involves building a proper compost pile that you will have
to turn. It heats up, breaking down the ingredients. It would
take a book to cover the whole topic. So instead of that,,,,here
are some good sites on the subject. http://www.a-horizon.com/compost/how_to_compost.html
http://www.oldgrowth.org/compost/
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| Winterizing Your
Landscape: |
- Be sure that you have mulched all your beds to keep the soil
warmer over the winter. Good mulch, 2-4 inches deep is fine here.
Always keep mulch pulled back from the base of your shrubs and
trees. You don't want to raise the soil level around the base
of these plants.
- Don't do anything to encourage foliar growth at this time. You
don't want to prune or fertilize things and have them put on tender
new growth when we are heading into winter. This tender new growth
will be easily harmed by the first freeze. This could kill your
plant. · For your perennials wait until the freeze actually freezes
them back before you prune them for the winter. This is the way
it happens in Nature, and your backyard is a part of that. If
you prune too early, you could experience new tender growth.
- Give your whole landscape a thorough soaking with diluted liquid
seaweed. Seaweed is potassium-rich, which will promote winter
hardiness in all your plants, including your lawn.
- Be sure to water your landscape when a hard freeze is expected.
Water in the soil acts like an insulator for the roots of the
plant. We are expecting a wet winter this year, so watering should
not be taking up much of your time!
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| Annual Color: |
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You can still plant annual
color at this time of year. Even though it is cold to us, the cool
season annuals like it! By planting now, you will still have time
to enjoy their flowers over the winter, with them being mature,
larger, and beautiful plants come spring. And, as always, use dilute
liquid seaweed as a soil drench when planting. One of the time-honored
techniques to get them off to a good start and to keep them blooming
was to put a pinch of bonemeal directly underneath the little transplants
when they go in the ground. That would still be fine to do, but
you might try using Garden-Ville's Rocket Fuel instead. It, too,
it a phosphorus rich fertilizer with some bat guano and brewers
yeast in it. It sure makes those plants jump out of the ground!
You can still plant the following annuals right now.
Cool
season annuals are:
Snapdragons
Dianthus
Pansies
Johnny Jump Up's
Dusty Miller
Calendula
Stock
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| Trees and Shrubs: |
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You can still plant dormant
and evergreen trees and shrubs, even in the middle of winter in
this part of Texas. Growers in Texas leave their containerized trees
out in the weather. They would be much happier in some good, warm
soil! Just like fall planting, getting them in the ground just as
soon as you can will allow them to become somewhat established by
the heat of the coming summer.Two products that will help your newly
planted trees establish quicker and easier are liquid seaweed and
mycorrhizae fungus inoculant.
- Liquid Seaweed:
This product is a natural source of Vitamin B1, a natural rooting
stimulator that will help your plants establish quicker. It also
contains over sixty trace minerals. It comes as a concentrate
that you mix with water and then use a soil drench after planting.
For a five-gallon tree or shrub, pour three or four gallons of
this solution around the root ball when planting.
- Mycorrhizal Fungus:
This is a new product on the market. This beneficial fungus is
found in all healthy soils. It has a symbiotic relationship with
plants. The roots of your plants release a gas from their roots
that this fungus uses as its sustenance. In exchange for this,
the fungus protects the plants roots from disease and insect attacks
and also reaches out and brings water and nutrients back to the
plant. You can now purchase this product to use when you plant
most anything. It has to be applied in the root zone, so you mix
it with the soil backfill when you plant. Even though it is found
in healthy soils, by applying when you plant you will give your
new plantings the immediate benefits of this wonderful soil amendment.
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| Trees with Fall
Color: |
- Red Oak: A
fine native Texas tree. There are two Red Oaks that you will find
here. One is the Shumard Red Oak that will tolerate many soils,
but is found most often west of I-35. It has red to brown fall
color and will hang on to those leaves over the wintertime. The
other Red Oak is the Nuttal Red Oak, found in east Texas. There
is some dispute about the genus of this tree. Some want to change
the name from Quercus nuttallii to Quercus texana. It sometimes
goes by the name Pin Oak. It prefers acid soils and tends to have
better fall color than the Shumard. It will tolerate poorly drained
soils. Both are fast growing, deciduous trees that has a rounded
canopy to 30-50 feet tall.
- Chinese Pistache:
Native to China. Moderate growth to 40-60 feet tall and wide.
Great fall tree with spectacular red to orange leaf colors. It
is a gawky, ill-formed tree in youth, growing dense and shapely
with age. Tolerates a wide range of soils. Very drought tolerant.
Deciduous.
- Bald Cypress:
This is the tree that you see along the San Marcos River, but
it will adapt nicely to a dry land setting. In fall, the feathery
leaves turn a very pretty coppery bronze color. This tree grows
in a pyramidal shape to 50-70 feet tall in the landscape, but
can hit 100 feet in the wilds. It has a nice winter silhouette.
- Swamp Chestnut
Oak: Native to east Texas, this tree cannot tolerate standing
water all the time, but does like wet conditions in the winter,
with intermittent wet/dry in the growing season. It definitely
needs to be planted in our sandy acidic soils and will grow to
over 100 feet tall. The best thing about this tree? It turns the
most beautiful bright red in the fall.
- Red Maple:
Native to low, wet areas of North America. Fast grower to 40-60
feet. Its new growth in spring is red and it has great scarlet-red
fall color. Tends to grow up tall before it starts to spread out.
Tolerates many soils. Deciduous.
- Sweet Gum:
This tree grows natively in sandy, acidic soils in low-lying areas
in the Piney Woods. It can reach over 100 feet and has fall colors
that can include yellow, scarlet, crimson, purple, and mahogany.
A truly colorful tree in the fall! You see them in great numbers
in both Bastrop and Smithville. The only drawback is that the
little balls that can hurt bare feet when stepped upon.
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| Miscellaneous: |
- Never use Weed and
Feed on your lawn! It will kill your trees!
- The winter is a great
time to design and prepare new planting beds for the coming spring
season. We are here to help you design your planting beds and
landscape if you will bring in photos and sketches of the area
you are designing. While we can't come to your home for this,
we offer this service in the nursery for free.
- For those plants that
you have to bring in the home for the winter, watering can be
tricky. A good way to know when to water a containerized plant
is to lift the pot and feel the weight. A heavy pot indicates
it is still wet and a light pot says that it is time to water
again.
- Have a soil test done
by the folks at Texas
Plant and Soil Lab. They do a very complete test and recommend
how to amend the soil organically with their analysis and interpretations.
You can pick up a test sheet at the nursery or go to their website
and download the form. If you need help with interpreting the
test, bring it by the nursery and Steve will help you make sense
of it.
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