Whether your planting a fig, apple, or peach tree you can follow these simple directions on how to plant a bare-root fruit tree. All fruit trees need a sunny spot in the landscape to do their best. You should allow at least twenty feet between trees to allow for proper air flow and room to grow. You can amend almost any soil to make it a good soil for fruit trees. Keep in mind that proper soil amending takes place over a period of time. Allow yourself two to three years to get the soil just right. Your tree will be forgiving of this and will appreciate your efforts to improve its home! So if you don’t have the perfect sandy loam, be patient, you can make it right with time and a little effort. And if you ever have any questions, we are always here to help.

Digging the Hole

1. Dig an ugly hole. You don’t want to dig a hole that has smooth, “hard” sides. The reason for this is simple. When we dig a perfectly round hole, using the shovel to shave the sides and scrap the bottom flat, we are creating a bowl. The soil that you would then put back in the hole is loose with the surrounding sides and bottom being hard and compact. The roots will tend to want to grow in this soft soil, not venturing out into the “hard” sides. By digging an ugly, uneven hole, when the new root growth reach the sides of the ugly hole they will be forced to grow into the surrounding soil. Digging an ugly hole is also a lot easier!
2. The width and depth of the hole should allow the roots to fit without bending. If you want to go the extra mile, dig the hole one foot wider and one foot deeper than the roots. This loosened soil will allow the new roots plenty of room to grow.

Planting the Tree

1. If you look closely at the base of the tree, you will see the soil line showing how deep the tree was planted before it was dug. Plant the tree at the same depth or slightly higher. This allows for settling.
2. When backfilling the hole around the roots, use only the soil that was originally dug out of the hole. Do not add any potting soil or fertilizer. Fill the hole about half full with the soil. Water this half-filled hole to the top of the soil in the hole. The water will settle the soil, filling any air pockets with soil. Allow the water to settle a bit and then fill the rest of the hole with soil almost to the top. Water this in, allowing the soil to settle again. Top off the hole with soil, being careful not to pile the soil up higher than the original soil line we discussed earlier.
3. You can, if you desire, build a basin around the tree to hold water next to the tree. This is really only needed when the tree is planted on a slope. A basin is sometimes used to contain the water next to the tree.

Proper Soil Amending

1. Instead of fertilizing the tree, you need to think of building the soil around the tree. By properly amending the soil we are making the conditions right for the life in the soil to thrive. When we feed the soil, the soil feeds the tree. After the tree is in the ground, follow these guidelines.
2. In about a three foot wide circle, cover the soil with the following;
   1. 1/2 inch of compost
   2. 1/4 inch of greensand
   3. dusting of rockphoshate
      Work the amendments into the top 2-3 inches of soil with a spade fork or hoe.
3. In a five gallon bucket, mix
   recommended amounts of the following to make 2 1/2 gallons.
   1. liquid seaweed
   2. horticultural molasses
      The seaweed is a natural source of Vitamin B1, a rooting stimulator and the molasses will jumpstart the beneficial life in the soil. Use this mix as a soil drench around the tree.
4. Add these amendments once a year, either in early fall or early spring.

Watering

1. You have already watered the tree in when backfilling and using the drench. Don’t water the tree again until it starts to leaf out unless you are in really fast-draining, sandy soil. If the top two inches of soil is moist, it is wet enough. When first planted, the tree does not have any leaves, so it is not using much water.
2. Watering is the most difficult thing to learn to do correctly. Water usage and availability is affected by many different things. For instance, once leafed out, a tree will use more water on a windy day than a calm one. A tree will use more water on a hot sunny day than a cool cloudy one. Sandy soils drain much quicker than clay soils. You can, however, follow some simple guidelines. Once the tree begins to leaf out, you should water deeply and infrequently. Place the water hose against the base of the tree and let the water soak deep into the soil. If the water is running off, it is turned on too high. For this reason, a basin is not needed unless your tree is on a slope. Soil type and drainage will determine how often. A sandy soil needs to be watered more often than a clay soil. Remember that too much water is as bad as too little. The ideal soil contains as much air as water. Remember, just because it is dry on top does not mean it is dry one foot deep. You can injure a tree by over-watering as easily as under-watering. An inexpensive moisture meter can be used that will tell you moisture levels to about eight inches. Two other ways to tell moisture levels are to watch the leaves of the tree for slight drooping. This droop will not harm the tree and can prevent over-watering. Water accordingly. You can also dig down to determine soil moisture at six inches or so. After looking for droop and checking soil moisture a few times, you should be able to tell how often your new tree needs water. There are no hard and fast rules on when or how much to water. Observe and learn your plants needs.

Mulching

1. Mulching is very important. It keeps the soil warm when it’s cold and keeps the soil cool when it’s hot. Over time, it decays into the soil, helping to build organic matter. While it is good to always keep the trees mulched, at least mulch once a year for the first 3-4 years. Any kind of mulch will do. Even pine needles!
2. Use at least two inches, with 3-4 inches being better. Be sure to keep the mulch away from the base of the tree. Mulch, or soil, piled around the base of the tree can rot the vascular system and kill the tree.
3. For an excellent weed guard, lay newspaper, 4-5 layers thick, under the mulch. This will keep the weeds and grass down until the following spring, when you will need to amend and mulch again.

Going the extra mile

1. To determine exactly what to amend your soil with you can have a soil test done to determine the exact needs of your soil. The Texas Plant and Soil Lab makes organic recommendations. Ask us for information.
2. Foliar feeding is an excellent way to feed your tree and to prevent insect and disease. Spray with seaweed when buds show color, when petals drop, and when fruit is 1/2 inch big. You can also use one of the combined foliar sprays.
3. Any extra fruit (or vegetables!) can be dropped off here. We love fruits and pies and jellies and jams!

Pruning your Fruit Trees

Pruning does not need to be a mysterious art that only Master Gardeners understand. But before we get into how to prune the different varieties, let’s go over the reasons we prune our fruit trees. Pruning reduces the tree size so that the reduced root system on your bare-root tree can service a smaller tree size. Pruning can also open the center of the tree to increase the sunlight for select branches. By pruning, we also open a tree up to increase air-flow, thereby reducing disease.

Be sure to always use clean, sharp tools. Pruning paint is not needed (and is actually harmful!) as the wound will heal itself in a day or two. Always understand why you are pruning before you attack with that brand new pair of pruning shears! Bad pruning can harm the tree and result in lost fruit production. This guide is intended for dormant fruit tree pruning only. For info on subsequent pruning as the tree ages, it is best to consult with a good gardening book or two to completely get you up to speed on the how, what, and why we prune different varieties of fruit trees.

There are three different ways to prune fruit trees. The Central Leader Method and the Open Center Method. The third method is to not prune at all! Prune the different varieties using the following methods.

Central Leader Method
Apples
Cherry
European Pears
Persimmon (or none)
European Plums

Open Center Method
Peaches
Japanese Plums
Nectarines
Apricot
Asian Pears

Special or No Pruning
Figs
Pomegranate
Persimmon
Nut trees

Pruning for Shape

Planting Time:
The tree you buy can be as much as six or seven feet tall. At the time of planting, cut the top of the tree back (called heading back) to two and one half to three feet tall after planting. At this time you have one of two choices.
First Choice: You can choose 3-4 lateral branches and let them grow into the mature scaffold branches that will be the main ‘frame’ of the tree. If you choose this method, your pruning is complete until the next year.
Second Choice: Or you can trim all side branches off the entire whip. Then, in mid-June, when other branches have grown from the whip, choose four of them that are 3-4 inches apart vertically and evenly spaced around the whip. The strongest growing, top shoot, will become the central leader (trunk) of the tree. The other three will become, in time, the lower branches of the tree.

Each Year After: Each year, repeat this process in early spring. Cut the central leader back about two foot above the previous years branches. Then again, in June of the same year, choose another layer of branches that are at least one foot above last years branches. Choose to leave branches so that they ‘spiral’ up the trunk of the tree.
Outcome: You want to end up with a tree that has somewhat of a Christmas tree look to it. Each June, the central leader that you choose to leave will grow the tree taller and taller. The older scaffold branches that you left in preceding years will be larger at the bottom of the tree and smaller at the top. This allows sunlight to reach the lower and upper parts of the tree. Do this for the first 4-6 years of the trees life and then let the tree mature naturally.
Planting Time:
This method of pruning starts out like the central leader method but seeks a different outcome. Where you wanted the Christmas tree shape for the central leader method, here you want an upside-down umbrella look! You could take the middle picture above and remove the central leader and you would have a picture after the first year pruning. Here again, head back the newly planted whip to two and one half to three feet tall. Then, here again, you have two choices.
First Choice: You can choose three laterally growing branches to leave as the main scaffolding of the tree. Pinch or cut off all other branches and shoots. The branches that are left will be the only main, trunk branches for the life of the tree. Your through for the first year.
Second Choice: Trim off all side branches off the entire whip. Then, in mid-June, when other branches have grown from the whip, choose three or four of them that are 3-4 inches apart vertically and evenly spaced around the whip. Remove all other branches and shoots. The branches that are left will be the only main, trunk branches for the life of the tree.
Each Year After: For the next 3-4 years, prune back the tips of all the branches, leaving two or three at the ends of the branch. Guide the growth of the tree outward, creating an open middle.
Outcome: By guiding the growth outward and not up you allow more sunshine to all the branches.

Open Center Method

Head back young trees for both Central and Open Centered Methods
Central Leader Method with strongest upright branch left as the trunk. Prune this branch for Open Center.
Central Leader Method of heading back the central leader in early Spring.

Special Pruning or No Pruning

Pecan and Walnut Trees:
If your serious about your pecan or walnut trees as nut producers, you should study and learn the proper way to prune for the best nut production. These guidelines serve to introduce you to the method. These trees are grown as a central leader tree. You can follow the central leader method for the first 4-5 years or take a more relaxed approach after the second year dormant pruning. Prune these trees only when dormant.
When Planted: When planted as bare-root stock, you should cut these trees back by 30-50%. This will help compensate for the loss of root system when the tree was dug. As the tree grows new side shoots below your cut, keep them tip-pruned to under twelve inches for the first year. This allows the trunk to develop stronger and quicker. As these shoots are growing, watch for one of the new shoots to take the lead and grow stronger and more vertical than the others. This strongest new growth will be your new central leader. Remove the closest competitor.
Second Year Dormant Pruning: Head back the central leader that you chose the previous year. Tip prune all remaining large branches. If taking the relaxed approach, remove all branches below 5-6 feet. Relaxed pruners are through pruning and can let the tree take its natural shape for the rest of it’s life.
Third through Fifth Year Dormant Pruning: Continue to head back the central leader for at least the third and fourth winter while the tree is dormant. Fifth year is optional. Prune for branches that are ‘spirally spaced’ around the tree. Continue to tip prune all branches. Beginning in the third year, remove lower branches to a height of 5-6 feet that are more than one inch in diameter.

Persimmons, Pomegranates, and Figs:
All of these should be allowed to grow to their natural shape and form. The persimmons will grow as small trees and can be shaped using the central leader method. Pomegranates will grow as rather dense large shrubs, so give them room to grow. Figs will grow as a more open shrub than pomegranates, but they can still get large at maturity so they too need plenty of room both up and out.

• Other Pruning: Remove suckers that shoot from the base of the tree and water sprouts that grow on the trunk or main limbs. Remove any branches that cross and rub or are diseased or damaged.
• Not pruning at all: Some people choose not to prune any fruit tree at any time. This is entirely acceptable. As with much of gardening, this is a personal choice. Trees left unpruned generally bear fruit sooner but this early fruit production is at the expense of the better good for the mature tree. Pruning methods mentioned in this article, however, are considered standard practice for best fruit production and overall tree health.
• Limit pruning: Do not prune after August as late season pruning can encourage late new growth that can be harmed by early fall freezes. Prune sparingly. Some fruit trees bear fruit on one year old wood only.
• Crotch Angles: When using either the Open Center or Central Leader Method, it is good to open, or spread the crotch where the desired new growth meets the limb. This encourages stronger growth at this crotch and helps eliminate tight areas where branch meets branch. You can do this with clothes hangers or homemade spreaders made from small wood pieces. Or you can hang something lightweight from the lower branch.
• Chill Hours: A chill hour occurs when the temperature falls below 45° for one hour. Bastrop County averages about 600-700 chill hours per winter.
• Fertilizing: Do not use any synthetic fertilizers. Remember, you are trying to build the life in the soil and these types of fertilizers kill the life in the soil. Fertilize only in spring. Never use any high nitrogen fertilizers as this encourages foliage growth and limited fruit production. Foliar feeding is also very good for the tree.
• Tree Wrap: The base of the tree does not need any kind of wrapping material. This only harbors insects. If you want to protect the tree from your weed-eater, use a loose plastic tube of some sort.
• Thinning Fruit: While difficult for us to do, learn how to properly thin your fruit for bigger and healthier trees and fruit.
  
  

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